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Mouse Test

Use this mouse test to check every button and the scroll wheel. Point at the box, then click, scroll and press the side buttons: each one lights up and shows in the live event log.

Tested 0/9

Click, scroll and press the side buttons here

Takes about 30 seconds.

Something not responding? Select its tile for tips.

Keep going

Not tested yet: all 9 inputs.

How to use the mouse test

  1. Point at the test box. The mouse test needs a mouse or a touchpad. A touch screen can’t send mouse buttons.
  2. Click left, right and middle. Press the wheel down for a middle click. Each tile turns green with a tick after you let go.
  3. Press both side buttons. Back is usually the rear thumb button, and Forward the front one.
  4. Scroll up and down. If your wheel tilts, push it left and right too.
  5. Check the list. Tested 9/9 means every input works. If a tile stays gray, select it for tips, or mark it as not working.
  6. Press Copy report to paste the result into a support ticket or a return request.

The right-click menu, middle-click scrolling and the Back button are blocked only inside the box, so you stay on this page. If your mouse has no side buttons or tilt wheel, open Settings and tick what it doesn’t have. A full check takes about 30 seconds.

How the mouse click test works

This online mouse test runs in your browser. Each time you press or release a button, the browser sends a pointer event with the button’s number: 0 for left, 1 for middle, 2 for right, 3 for back and 4 for forward. The mouse click test records when each press and release happened. That’s how it shows how long you held a button and how fast a second press followed.

The wheel sends a scroll event with a distance. Chrome and Edge usually report pixels, often 100 per notch, while Firefox may report lines. The test counts notches from the smallest step it sees. Smooth or free-spinning wheels send uneven steps, so their notch count is approximate.

Unlike a downloadable mouse tester, nothing is installed and nothing is uploaded. The trade-off is that a browser only sees what the operating system passes on. It can’t read the DPI setting, the sensor, the polling rate or the battery level. Buttons that your mouse software turns into keys arrive as keys, and the event log shows them.

On a laptop touchpad, a physical click counts as left, and a two-finger tap counts as right. On a Mac, Ctrl+click opens menus like a right click, but the test logs it as Left + Ctrl, because that’s the button you pressed. Taps on a touch screen show in the log as Touch, since a finger isn’t a mouse button.

Understanding your results

What you see What it means What to do
Green tile with a tick The input works. Nothing.
A tile that never reacts The press isn’t reaching the browser: a setting, a remapped button or a hardware fault. Select the tile for tips, then try another port and another computer.
“As key” on Back or Forward Your mouse software sends a key instead of a button. Fine for browsing. Reset the button in the software to test the switch itself.
Amber tile, “Double?” One press registered twice within 80 ms. That’s switch bounce, often from wear. Click slowly 20 times. If it happens again, run the double click test.
Amber tile, “Held 10 s” The button stayed pressed: a stuck switch, or Windows ClickLock. Turn off ClickLock, then clean around the button.
The wheel ticks the wrong direction A reverse-scroll setting, or dust in the wheel’s sensor. Check the scroll direction setting, then clean the wheel.

The event log under the test lists every press, release, scroll and key with its time. Hold time is how long a button stayed down. A gap of a few milliseconds between a release and the next press is faster than anyone can click. That’s why the test flags it.

Mouse button not working? Fixes by button

Test again after each step, so you know which fix worked. If the mouse fails on two computers, the fault is in the mouse.

Left or right click

  • Change the connection. Plug the mouse or its receiver into another USB port, then try another computer.
  • Check the button swap. On Windows, open Settings › Bluetooth & devices › Mouse and check the primary mouse button. On a Mac, check System Settings › Mouse.
  • Check ClickLock. Windows ClickLock holds a button down after a long press. Turn it off in Mouse settings › Additional mouse settings.
  • Clean the button. Blow compressed air along the edge of the button.
  • Use the warranty. If the click is still dead or double-clicks, the switch is worn. Use the return window or the warranty, and attach the copied report.

Side buttons (back and forward)

Mouse software such as Logitech G HUB and Razer Synapse can give side buttons other jobs. If a side button shows up as a key in the log, reset it to Back or Forward in the software. Safari on a Mac doesn’t use side buttons for Back on its own. Keys that your mouse sends also appear in the keyboard tester.

Middle click and scroll wheel

The wheel click needs a firm press straight down. Middle click also opens a link in a new tab, so you can check it on any web page too. If the wheel jumps, skips or scrolls back a step, dust in the wheel’s sensor is the usual cause. Blow air into the gap around the wheel while you roll it. If it still jumps, the sensor is worn, and the mouse needs repair or replacement.

Testing gaming mice (Logitech, Razer and others)

Gaming mice often have extra buttons that send keys or macros instead of mouse buttons. DPI and profile buttons work inside the mouse and never reach the browser, so they can’t show up in any web test.

Test the default profile first. On most gaming mice, every button then sends a standard button, so all 9 inputs should tick. Then switch to your game profile and test again. On a G502-style mouse, note which buttons now send keys: the event log shows each key’s code. If a button works in the default profile but not in your game profile, the mapping is the cause, not the switch.

A sniper or DPI-shift button only changes the speed while you hold it. It works inside the mouse, so this test can’t see it either. On a wireless mouse, a weak battery can drop clicks, so charge it and test again before you blame a switch.

Which mouse test do I need?

This mouse test checks that each button and the wheel register. Some problems need timing or movement data that this page doesn’t collect. A mouse that double-clicks only now and then needs a longer test that counts every gap. Click speed, scroll steps, polling rate and DPI each have their own test. Pick the row that matches your problem:

What happensTest to use
A button or side button does nothing, or you are checking a new mouseMouse test (above)
One click opens two things, or drag-and-drop lets goDouble Click Test
How fast can I click (CPS)?CPS Test

Frequently asked questions

How can I test my mouse clicks?

Point at the box in this mouse test and click each button: left, right and the wheel. The button lights up on the drawing while you hold it, and its tile ticks once you let go. Then press the side buttons and scroll both ways. If a tile never reacts, that click isn't reaching your computer, so try another port before blaming the mouse.

How do I test if my mouse right click is working?

Right-click inside the test box. The Right tile should react, and no menu appears because the box blocks it. If nothing happens, check that your system hasn't swapped the primary and secondary buttons. Then try another USB port and another computer. If the right click fails everywhere, the switch has probably worn out, so use the warranty or replace the mouse.

Why don't my side buttons show up in the mouse test?

Mouse software can turn side buttons into keys, macros or DPI switches. When that happens, the browser never sees a button press. Keys still show in the event log, and Back or Forward shortcuts tick the tile as sent as key. DPI and profile buttons never reach the browser. Safari on a Mac may not report side buttons at all.

Is my mouse double clicking?

Click one button slowly, about 20 times, inside the test box. Each click should add exactly one press. If one click shows two presses less than 80 ms apart, the tile turns amber and the test shows a possible double click warning. Worn switches cause this. If the warning appears, run the double click test for a longer check before you claim a warranty.

How do I test my mouse sensor?

Browsers can't read the sensor directly, so no website can show its health. Move the mouse slowly across a mousepad and watch the cursor: it shouldn't jump, drift or stutter. If it does, clean the sensor lens with a dry cotton swab and try another surface. A polling rate test and a DPI test show how the sensor reports movement.

How do I check my mouse's DPI?

DPI is how many counts the mouse sends per inch of movement. Browsers can't read the DPI setting, and mouse software shows only the value you chose. To measure the real DPI, turn off pointer acceleration. Then move the mouse a known distance along a ruler and count the pixels the cursor travels. A mouse DPI test does this math for you.

What makes a mouse click?

Under each button sits a small switch. Pressing the button closes a metal contact. The mouse's firmware then waits a few milliseconds for the contact to settle, which is called debounce. As the contacts wear, they can bounce for longer and send two clicks for one press. Optical switches use a light beam instead, so they don't suffer from contact bounce.

All mouse tests (2)

  • CPS Test

    Click-speed test with 1/3/5/10/30/60/100-second modes, live CPS graph, personal best and shareable result card.

  • Double Click Test

    Detects a faulty mouse that double-clicks on a single click by measuring the gap between mouse-down events per button.

Other test categories

Written and tested by Tanveer Azam Ansari. I check each tool by hand on real monitors, keyboards, mice and controllers in current desktop and phone browsers before it goes live.

Updated · How we test · Report a problem